DIALOGUE: LANVIN 130 YEARS

Duration: Saturday, December 7, 2019–Sunday, February 9, 2020
Opening: Friday, December 6, 2019
Venue: Fosun Foundation Shanghai

Shanghai, China: World famous fashion brand Lanvin announces it will join with Shanghai Fosun Foundation on December 7, 2019, to present the exhibition “Dialogue: 130 Years of Lanvin” to Chinese audiences. The exhibition features over seventy antique clothing items, new runway show pieces, and precious works of embroidery, providing a sweeping view of this legendary brand’s profound influence on the fashion world over the past 130 years, and its reinterpretation under Lanvin’s new Creative Director, Bruno Sialelli.

“I wish each and every one of you a fabulous journey of discovery through this exhibition, which I am convinced will move, entertain and fascinate you.”

—Lanvin CEO, Jean Philippe Hecquet

Lanvin was founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin. As Paris’s oldest fashion brand, Lanvin is renowned around the world for its timeless designs, pursuit of perfection in craft, and bold use of cuts and colors. It stands today as a global leader in high end fashion. The exhibition “Dialogue: 130 Years of Lanvin” presents a refined and diverse collection of precious items never before exhibited in China from a diverse range of themes in a vivid retelling of the history of this storied brand that shows the evolution of Lanvin’s fashion innovations.

Through the exhibits “Bow Ties and Brooches”, “Large and Small”, “Lanvin Theater”, “Plants and Animals”, “Evolution of Clothing Models”, “Exotic Travels” and “Waves” on the Fosun Foundation second floor, and “Discerning Paris”, “Video Room”, “Lanvin Light Room”, “Embroidery” and “Museum” on the third floor, the exhibition constructs a pathway through 130 years of history to present the evolution of Lanvin’s fashion across the dimensions of time and space, to pay tribute to the past, and gaze into the future. In the dialogue across time and space between glorious history and modern heritage, between timeless classics and groundbreaking innovations, the viewer and brand join together to explore the deep artistic meaning and penetrating insights into the times that lie behind Lanvin fashion.

 

Dialogue Between Glorious History and Modern Transmission

As it commemorates the 130th anniversary of Lanvin, this exhibition also welcomes new Creative Director Bruno Sialelli. Looking back over this legendary history, Lanvin’s landmark designs have infused the brand with extraordinary DNA, while the touching human stories behind each design have bestowed Lanvin with a unique culture. This spiritual core is found within every aspect of the brand, transcending time and space to provide Lanvin’s designers with an inexhaustible wellspring of creative inspiration. Founder Jeanne Lanvin employed what are now iconic design elements such as bow ties, the mother and daughter brooch, children’s clothing and the childlike mind, medieval style, exotic flavor and the iconic “Lanvin blue” to form a signature style which has now found new life in the hands of Creative Director Bruno Sialelli. It shimmers with the luster of the times, and continues the splendor of the Lanvin brand in the dialogue between history and modern transmission.

Just like the exhibition title, Dialogue brings Jeanne Lanvin’s vision together with the brand’s completely new interpretation in a dialogue of resonance.

—Lanvin Creative Director, Bruno Sialelli

Bows and Logos
Lanvin’s unparalleled and unrequited love for Marguerite provided her with the inspiration and the motivation that she needed to develop the House of Lanvin. In 1924, Lanvin adopted the famous logo, known as the Woman and Child – a tender motif that expresses Lanvin’s multifaceted relationship with Marguerite. Lanvin’s familial and precious ethos is captured in the image of a mother leaning forwards to clasp her daughter’s hands.

Playing with Scale
In 1908, Lanvin developed a children’s line in response to the demand generated by the clothing she made for her daughter, Marguerite Marie-Blanche (b. 1897). The following year she added a Young Ladies and Women’s department where mothers and daughters ordered their Lanvin creations together.

The New Medieval: Lanvin Bleu
The ‘Angel’ (L’ange) dress illustrates Jeanne Lanvin’s interest in the cultural production of Medieval and Renaissance Europe. The vivid ultramarine used to convey the angels’ robes was a costly and luxurious colour in 15th-century Florentine painting. It was translated onto silk by the dye factories established by Lanvin in 1923. The formula for the dye was carefully safeguarded and ‘Lanvin Blue’ continues to be central to the language of the House today.

Flora and Fauna
Between 1921 and 1925, Jeanne Lanvin worked closely with the designer and draughtsman Armand-Albert Rateau. Their numerous collaborations gave Lanvin an “architectural framework for her style – a modernism that embraced ornament”. For the dining room in Lanvin’s Paris residence at 16 rue Barbet-de-Jouy, Rateau designed an elaborate folding screen composed of ten panels. It brings together constellations of plants and flowers, sinuous tress, and animals composed of smooth, curving lines.
The rabbit and fox chase continues from Rateau’s famous screen onto dresses in Bruno Sialelli’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2019.

Comic gallery
Conceived as an immersive performance, and referenced in the second floor gallery, Bruno drew on surrealist references by reproducing the sleep-induced adventures of US cartoonist Winsor McCay’s comic strip, Little Nemo in Slumberland (1905-11), on accessories and clothing. This collection renewed the House’s legacy of daydreams as a perfect device to fetishise French elegance and experiment with craft techniques and imaginative silhouettes.

 

Dialogue Between Timeless Classics and Groundbreaking Innovations

What is changing and what is eternal? Since its inception, Lanvin has aspired to lead world fashion trends, marshaling penetrating insight into the essence of ever-changing fashion, a pioneering modern spirit, outstanding design and bold innovation, Lanvin has constantly brought new developments to timeless classics. Lanvin collaborates with a wide range of creators including visual artists, musicians, designers and writers, and draws inspiration from the cultures of the world. As they create new fashions, they also change the way fashion is presented, modeled and displayed.

“Each installation poses a question about what is changing and what is constant; the exquisite construction and attention to detail that persists at Lanvin is what delegates change to design. ”

-Curator and Exhibition Designer, Judith Clark

Lanvin’s Theatre
The relationship between Lanvin and theatre is one of the least renowned, yet fascinating aspects of the house. Jeanne Lanvin’ s contribution to stage costume was impressive, and spanned more than 35 years. She collaborated on 300-plus theatrical works that are counted in the archive.

Deco Poses
In 1925, Jeanne Lanvin was appointed President of the fashion section at the Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes – a significant event in the history of fashion and design. Lanvin reprised the role of President of the Pavillon de l’Élégance for the Exposition internationale des arts et techniques dans la vie moderne, held in Paris in 1937. Once again, the mannequins featured in the pavilion broke with tradition. The modern mannequin acts, therefore, as a conduit for the powerful role of imagination in our encounters with fashion.

Exotic Travel
Lanvin travelled the world in search of new experiences and sources of inspiration. Her visits to museums, churches, and antique shops led her to collect costumes and ancient, folk, and ethnic textiles that informed her fashion designs.

Wave
The references of the garments adorned in shells are to beautifully painted women’s dresses. The one on display, ‘Coquillage rose’ (‘Pink Shell’), is from 1925, and it shows the translation across time and gender.

 

Dialogue Between Viewer and Brand

The exhibition also draws the viewer on a temporal thread along a 130 year journey of exploration. While revisiting many classic moments, a dialogue between viewer and brand unfolds across space. On the second floor of the Fosun Foundation, highly dramatic installations with clear themes form a dreamlike journey through time and space that inspires the viewer to seek out connections within the exhibition hall, and enter into a third space of intersecting light and shadow. This third space brings together the most treasured objects and documents from the history of Paris fashion. To stand among them is to engage in an intimate dialogue with Lanvin through time and space. Here, the viewer can take an up-close look at Lanvin’s exquisite craftsmanship, and explore the evolution of Lanvin fashion while reflecting on fashion’s constantly-shifting essence.

The essence of the 130-year-old brand Lanvin is about much more than just its classic clothing. It also rests in its passion for affection and family conveyed through its children’s clothing and furniture series. This is a perfect match with the healthy, happy and prosperous life Fosun Group strives to create.

—Fosun Foundation President, Jenny Jinyuan Wang

The Museum
The Museum contains the most precious historic objects from the Lanvin Archive in Paris. They have been collected here for their first-ever display in China.

Graphic Embroidery
Jean Lanvin audaciously combined simple designs with rich embroidery. This aesthetic can be attributed to the couturier’s sense of style; to her ability to produce designs that appear simple but are powerful.

The Video Room
The conflation of dreamlike imagery and high craftsmanship is a distinctive trait of the House of Lanvin.

The Judgement of Paris
This pochoir print, The Judgement of Paris, uses the mythological tale of competing forms of desire represented by the three goddesses, as a humorous take on the competitive nature of society dress. Two of the three garments designed by Lanvin, and featured in George Lepape’s illustration, have been recovered and further restored for this exhibition.

The Lanvin Light Room
The play of contrasts permeates the designs of Lanvin to the extent that it has become a signature of the House.Light and brilliance are frequent sources of inspiration for the House of Lanvin and occupy a central place in its universe.

 

LANVIN Café

Alongside the exhibition “Dialogue: 130 Years of Lanvin,” the LANVIN Café also makes its first appearance in China, recreating the atmosphere of the streetside French café to show Chinese viewers a slice of the romantic French living aesthetic. LANVIN Café is decorated with the trademark wood paneling, cloth canopies, mirrors and neon lighting of French cafés, not only presenting the pure French café culture, but also expressing Lanvin’s signature fashion aesthetic. The site also features a Lanvin-themed desert cart and crepes made by CLOUD Bistro chefs, giving visitors a taste of authentic French flavor.

Lanvin is joining hands with the Fosun Foundation Art Shop, drawing inspiration from Lanvin’s signature gift boxes and traditional Parisian book stalls to create a unique gift shop area presenting 17 souvenirs created expressly for this exhibition. Sit in LANVIN Café to enjoy the delicious food, or peruse the art souvenirs, and set out on a journey of “dialogue” across regions and cultures.

At this time, the CLOUD Bistro, located on the Fosun Foundation’s fourth floor terrace offering 270 degree views of the Bund, will officially open for business, providing Lanvin’s afternoon tea service and cocktails specially devised for the exhibition. Take in the fashionable allure and artistic import of Lanvin with a feast of the senses.

 

Acknowledgments

This exhibition enjoys special support from the French Consulate in Shanghai. Our strategic sponsorship partners are Fudi Elegant Garden and Yuyuan Investment Holdings; exhibition special partner is Serious Skin Care; hotel partner is Hotel Indigo Shanghai on the Bund. FASHION ZOO is our opening party partner; Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Champagne is opening ceremony partner; and Voss is the official drinking water partner for the exhibition.

St. John Relaunches with Bold New Collection and Social Media Campaign Aimed at Global Audience

The American fashion house, known for its luxury knits, pushes the fashion envelope forward for an expanded customer base with a fresh vision and voice from new creative director Zoe Turner.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE (Irvine, CA) November 7, 2019 – St. John, the American luxury house founded in 1962 on the premise of simple, elegant knitwear enters an exciting new era with a fashion-forward capsule collection and provocative social media campaign envisioned by recently-appointed creative director Zoe Turner.

Embracing St. John’s future while paying homage to its past, the story unfolds with a redesigned logo – a subtle yet powerful change. Leading this new narrative is a refreshingly modern limited-edition capsule collection created by Turner and her team of artisans and knitwear technicians. The 20 head-to-toe looks push the boundaries of craft and couture, as never-before-seen knitting techniques take both delicate and bold forms.

St. John’s iconic signatures are reimagined with modernized brand codes including knit stitch, metal hardware and a new jacket silhouette. Looks range from a featherweight pleated Grecian-inspired ensemble, to intricately textured, graphic geometric looks. In a creative twist, the hardware, is now incorporated into the clothing – down the front of a bodysuit or in the bodice of a cut-out midi dress. St. John’s signature suit takes on new proportions, oversized and tailored at the same time, while classic cream and metallic tweeds now embody sporty silhouettes. Turner also introduces a new color palette, wovens and leather, along with essential wardrobe pieces that speak to the way today’s women dress.

Consumers will experience the collection via a limited release available online and a social media campaign launched exclusively on Instagram in the U.S. and WeChat in China, all new milestones for St. John. To help develop the concept and statement making social media campaign, St. John and Turner tapped 26-year-old photographer Bibi Cornejo Borthwick.

“It’s about evolving as a brand and making sure we are being as authentic as possible along the way, creating an emotional connection with the consumer,” said Joann Cheng, Fosun Group’s Global Partner and Chairman of Fosun Fashion Group, which acquired a majority interest in St. John in 2017. “St. John holds an important position within Fosun Fashion Group not only because it’s our first U.S. brand, but also one with a unique core of signature innovative knits and an undisputed reputation for quality. We are committed to further develop it into a successful luxury brand rooted in U.S. but with global width. The U.S. and China are two major markets, but we are increasing our efforts in regions such as Europe, where we also see ample opportunity.”

“We’re excited to introduce Zoe and her vision with this limited-edition capsule collection, and to spark the conversation around beautiful fashion through the digitally-led campaign. These new initiatives will speak to a larger audience, including our existing clients, about who we are and what we represent: a blend of modernity and history,” said chief executive officer Eran Cohen.

Turner, who leads all creative at St. John with a holistic approach, starting with its codes and icons and melding them with her fresh approach to product, visuals and store design, noted,
“The capsule represents new ideas, techniques and a fashion forward vision. It is a chance for us to highlight 20 unique looks and ideas. I wanted to speak to the different facets of who we are and how we can express ourselves in the future. It skims the surface of a very deep story.”

The capsule collection will be supported by launch events in New York and Beijing as well as robust social media campaigns featuring 100+ influencers and opinion leaders ranging from celebrities, inclusivity advocates, and fashion tastemakers each bringing the looks to life in their own way. Turner’s first full collection for St. John will be Fall 2020, and a new store concept will debut mid-to-late next year. -ends-

St. John Names Zoe Turner as New Creative Director, Redefining Modern Luxury at Heritage House

The designer joins the iconic American brand from Max Mara Fashion Group and Dior in a new role spanning product, store design and brand communication.

St. John, the American luxury house founded in 1962, has named Zoe Turner as its new creative director, an expanded role arching across all facets of the brand from its collections and retail environments to its multimedia presence. With a singular creative voice, Turner will take the legacy brand to new heights while remaining deeply rooted in its DNA.

A sophisticated and highly technical fashion and knitwear designer with 20 years of experience, Turner has an impressive background that includes almost a decade at Dior under both John Galliano and Raf Simons, during which she honed her skills as a knitwear expert. Turner began her career working alongside celebrated Italian designer Alberta Ferretti, and most recently headed a team while consulting at Max Mara Fashion Group.

“Zoe has a fresh outlook. She is curious, creative and passionate, and this energy will help drive St. John to the next level. She has a deep understanding of the brand’s DNA and how to communicate that to customers through a 360° brand experience. We believe Zoe can introduce St. John to a larger audience through reinterpreting the brand codes and modernizing the collections,” said Joann Cheng, Fosun Group’s global partner, chairman of Fosun Fashion Group, which acquired a majority interest in St. John in 2017.

“Zoe is a quiet and powerful creative soul with an innate sense of how women want to dress. I love her passion, her appreciation for all eras and her eye to the future. She has a vision for the bigger picture, and I look forward to seeing the impact that Zoe will have at St. John,” said Eran Cohen, chief executive officer of St. John.

“St. John has a rich history of innovation and flair. Like kindred spirits, I look forward to creating a new chapter in the story of a great American brand.”

Keeping luxury, comfort, confidence and classicism at the forefront, Turner will lead a team of artisans, craftsman and technical experts to create clothes that spark desire and start a new conversation.

“I’m honored and excited about the challenge ahead, and to lead the creative teams with a new vision for today’s woman.”

 

绮梦巴黎,LANVIN 2020春夏时装秀

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对巴黎人来说,没有什么一个秋雨蒙蒙的早晨更适合赖床的了,如果有什么可以让他们离开温暖的床铺,那必须是一场更美的幻梦。

LANVIN甜蜜梦乡

Lanvin这场名为“Slumber Land”的2020春夏系列大秀,在当地时间2019年上午9点30分于巴黎凯·布朗利博物馆(Musee du Quai Branly)拉开帷幕。Slumber Land意为“甜蜜梦乡”,Lanvin创意总监Bruno Sialelli从漫画《小尼莫梦乡历险记》中汲取灵感,演绎了一场似幻的绮梦。
1905年,插画家Winsor McCay创作了《小尼莫梦乡历险记》,在《纽约先驱报》上以连环画的形式每周出版一次,故事讲述了一个梦想超越现实的小男孩,被吸进他自己的幻想,在这里,有他所希望的一切。儿时于法国南部生活的Bruno Sialelli,童年的回忆时常能和尼莫产生共鸣,在这个世界里一切皆有可能,充满了幸福、幻想和美梦。而这个世界与老牌巴黎时装屋Lanvin的初创历史完美契合:Jeanne Lanvin在屋子里为她亲爱的女儿Marguerite设计小衣服。

优雅白日梦

Bruno Sialelli为他的2020春夏系列一共创造了64款男女装,除了尼莫,他还为Lanvin的故事续写了一段新篇章,重温了20世纪50至60年代的优雅,正如知名作家Truman Capote所形容的“天鹅”。在Lanvin的花园里,一切都让人如此的舒畅,明媚的色彩与松弛却精准的剪裁相辅相成。
夹克仿佛是舒适的茧,由球服和外套来强调了面料的质感。袖子,天鹅颈以及隐藏的纽扣只为突出高级定制的外观。在衬衫、褶皱和飘逸的运动衫及裙子上,你可以找到《小尼莫梦乡历险记》的整页漫画。层次感丰富的剪裁,搭配羊绒、丝绸、皮革等多种面料,新系列好似带领着我们在沙滩或公路上度过了一个漫长的夏天。在那个仲夏夜里,我们梦想的一切仿佛都随着设计变得触手可及,如一幕幕梦幻泡影于眼前慢慢闪现。
最后出场的时装借用了穆克什元素,这是一种古老的埃及刺绣。这种技术在埃及已经很少使用了,为此,Lanvin特意前往印度寻找会使用类似做法的女裁缝。制作这几件布满彩色金属片的服装需要花费一万五千小时,超越了设计本身,成为真正的艺术之作。
对于男装而言,本季增添了更休闲的着装风格,灵感来自Lanvin前任创意总监Jules-Francois Crahay当时设计的带有60年代印花的T恤。容量与时尚兼备的条纹旅行包,你可以用它装起从尼莫世界冒险归来的纪念品。

沉醉的早晨

细雨蒙蒙的Musee du Quai Branly凯·布朗利博物馆更像是一座热带花园,由Gilles Clement设计,花园鼓励白日梦和沉思,远离城市的喧嚣。毗邻这个宁静港湾的是一间会客室,依据美国著名室内设计师Dorothy Draper的风格而设计。这是秀场,又或许是尼莫的房间:宽条纹的粉色墙纸,厚实的绒毛地毯,洋溢着幸福和无忧无虑的活力。
整场大秀十分安静,Lanvin为每位来宾送上了silent Disco耳机,让他们得以在被雨水润泽的热带花园里身临其境,告别一切喧杂,沉浸在一场让人不愿醒来的美梦中。
除了天马行空的创意展现,本次大秀同样闪烁着熠熠星光,Lanvin品牌挚友歌手林彦俊、超模雎晓雯、歌手嘉羿、演员陈钰琪与复星国际董事长郭广昌、Lanvin董事会主席及复星时尚集团董事长程云、Lanvin首席执行官Jean-Philippe Hecquet共同观看了本场大秀。