Fosun: Joann Cheng on building a proper Chinese luxury group

Few groups have excited as much attention in luxury in the past few years as Fosun, a giant Chinese conglomerate that has gradually built up a significant position as player in fashion and elegance in Europe.

The highest-profile acquisition by its division Fosun Fashion Group has been Lanvin, the oldest haute couture house in Paris. Though the Fosun Fashion Group has also acquired control or large minority stakes in a quintet of diverse, but definitely prestigious luxury marques. Like Wolford, the most famous high-end hosiery business, which Fosun acquired in 2018, same year as Lanvin. The conglomerate even created a Fosun Fashion Group, which also owns a significant majority stake in Caruso, one of Italy’s greatest manufacturer of high-end tailoring. And has a controlling stake in St. John Knits, and also in Tom Tailor, the German clothing retailer.

Hence, in recent seasons, the chairman of Fosun Fashion Group (FFG), Joann Cheng, has been a quiet, yet much noted presence at Lanvin shows, joined in the front row by FFG Vice President David Chan.  So, we caught up with Cheng and Chan to discover their vision on how Fosun plans to build a profitable luxury group.
Quoted company on the Hong Kong since 2007, Fosun is a diversified conglomerate with stakes in real estate, pharmaceuticals, health care, wealth management and insurance. In 2018, Fosun earned record profit of RMB 13.4 billion or ($2 billion) on turnover of RMB 109.4 billion ($16.5 billion). Though privately owned, the group is perceived to be an expression of China’s drive to achieve greater soft power worldwide over the next decade. It certainly has deep pockets and has bought stakes in prestige global brands. It owns Wolverhampton Wanderers football team, currently ranked sixth in the English Premier League; over 90% of Club Med; some 18% of Tsingtao beer and several prestige buildings like the 230-meter tall residential tower at 126 Madison in Manhattan and 28 Liberty Street, a 60-story building near Wall Street.

However, its most mediatic investments are surely in fashion and luxury, via Fosun Fashion Group, which is part of the conglomerate’s quaintly named Happiness segment, meaning direct to consumer lifestyle brands for middle class consumption. This even includes a minority stake in Le Cirque du Soleil.

Cheng is very much new-generation-business Chinese. She attended Shanghai University of Finance and Economics and has a masters from China Europe International Business School, also in Shanghai. After college, she became an auditor at KPMG for 10 years, before moving to commercial finance and private equity funds prior to joining Fosun. Cheng began as CFO of its USD fund, before moving to post-investment portfolio management.

“In 2016, we began to realize that fashion was a very seasonal business. That it required a long-term commitment and vision in order to really build up a brand. So in 2017, we took a much more direct interest in this portfolio. We do not run it like investors. We are really like a corporate type of group with long-term view,” she explained over coffee in Paris.

In early 2019, the group also created the China-based Fosun Brand Management Company, a specialized team designed to operate brands in China, which handles real estate, opening stores and managing those boutiques. Both for FFG’s quintet of brands, and by offering those services  to other medium-sized external marques that want to come into China. Fosun Brand Management Company has already inked a deal with the Marquee Group, a US fund that includes brands such as Martha Stewart, Ben Sherman, BCBG, Body Glove and Bruno Magli of O. J. Simpson fame, to do business with them in China.
But, Fosun itself is clearly more attracted to higher-end European fashion.

“Fosun accumulated experience first-hand as a minority stake in Caruso, and we found that this was a very attractive investment even if it needed  a long-term commitment. Now, we have brands that have very unique DNA. St. John is specialized in knitwear, Caruso a luxury men’s suiting; Lanvin is high luxury independent couture house; and Wolford is a key brand for tights and bodies. So, they are all quite unique. So, we were very attracted by this sort of brand equity. We want to support these brands to grow in their home country and to build them in the China market. So far, for all them, China is very small compared to home market. For Lanvin, for example, China it’s about 20% of total retail. While we are about to launch Caruso in China,” expounded Cheng.

None of the five are as prestigious as Lanvin, one of Paris most storied couture labels, which had a glorious period of editorial support and growth during the 15-year tenure of creative director Alber Elbaz. However, after his dismissal in 2015, Lanvin rumbled through two other designers, and lost clients and turnover at an alarming rate before Fosun acquired control of the house in spring 2018 with a commitment to invest €100 million.

Since taking control, Fosun installed the experienced French executive Jean-Philippe Hecquet as CEO and named Bruno Sialelli as creative director, who has gone on to win largely positive reviews from the unforgiving front-row fashion reviewers.

“Lanvin is very reputable in the Asian market. It’s a truly unique brand – with long Parisian history, and an amazing archive, which puts value into the  brand. So, that brand deserves a larger business. And we really believe that Bruno has the talent to bring back the creative tradition of the brand. So, basically, we are determined it bring this brand back on track,” insists Cheng.

Cheng is voluble in her praise for Sialelli, whose collections have won wide applause for their exotic novelty and subtle use of Lanvin’s DNA.

“Bruno has this unique talent. Like when you see the shows, the whole mood is more refreshed, with a younger component, yet still with a brand heritage component. And, Bruno used lots of elements from the archives, like the logo and much more,” she enthuses.
Moving quickly, they have moved the entire creative team out of multiple offices spread over three buildings near its historic Faubourg Saint-Honoré flagship and installed them all in seven floors in one building on hip rue Saint-Augustin, in the new Silicon Valley of Paris in the western end of the 2nd arrondissement.

“Being newcomers, we can install best practices,” Cheng notes.

Lanvin also opened three stores last year in China: two in Shanghai and one in Hong Kong K11, the multi-billion waterfront cultural district and shopping destination that is the brainchild of tycoon and art patron Adrien Cheng. Plus, Lanvin opened a pop-up in Mercer in SoHo.

Cheng and Chan are somewhat infuriatingly careful not to reveal Fosun’s exact stake in many of the companies, or indeed their annual turnover. However, Bregenz-based Wolford is quoted in Vienna, with annuals sales of around €145 million euros. While Hamburg-based Tom Tailor is quoted in Frankfurt, with annual group sales of  some €850 million. So, the Fosun Fashion Group annual turnover most likely exceeds one and a quarter billion euros.

In Italy, Caruso has also opened a new showroom near Duomo, and Fosun is keen to develop its own brand, even if the company is still more famous as a manufacturer than marque. “Caruso is a manufacturer. That is its core values, as the brand makes incredible classic suits. But we want to evolve more to a total look that can be worn by gentlemen on all occasions,” explains Cheng.

Before Chan adds: “It’s important to realize that three of our five brands have their own manufacturing: St. John has plants in Mexico; Wolford in Austria and Slovenia; and Caruso produces clothes for top-tier luxury brands, among whom Lanvin. That was the connection.”

Back in the late ’80s and early ’90s, several well-funded Japanese groups bought French brands, without leading to any notable successes. Why, one wonders, does Fosun think they can be be different? And, what makes them think they can rival major western players like Kering or LVMH?

Choosing her words carefully, Cheng responds: “Both Kering and LVMH we really respect. We don’t want to compare ourselves to them and their market position. We are so young, just born three years ago. We only opened FFG in 2017.”

“Now we are focussed on operations, though our investment office is also looking for opportunities.  A key way to develop is through organic growth. So to grow these brands we have the core engine of the home market and their heritage. And then we have the second engine, the China engine.  We are in the China market, which is a reaaalllly big market. China is a very good in digital, and in e-commerce. And, we believe we can build them up digitally, like with livestreamed shows,” expounds Chan.

During the recent season, when coronavirus meant no Chinese celebrities and buyers could come from China to the Lanvin show, the house produced a virtual reality version of the catwalk event, and showed it on Iqiyi, the giant Beijing-based online video platform, and on Secoo, the giant Chinese online luxury e-commerce platform. It reached an audience of 1.5 million individuals, with a potential exposure to 126 million viewers. Plus, the Lanvin catwalk moment also played  on TikTok, expanding the reach.

“Chinese people really like fashion and luxury, so they really wanted to see this show. And with livestreaming they could. And, we had 250 articles in Chinese fashion and lifestyle media on this show!  That’s what I mean by the China engine!” she cheered.

Unlike many European executives, who are in the midst of closing stores, pop-ups, restaurants and even factories due to Covid-19, Cheng believes, at least for China, that the worst moment has passed.

“Yes, for sure it has had an impact, but China is pretty much cooling down, with almost 70%, in some cities 100% back to work. We also hope that consumption after a few more months shall catch up. School, however, is all online, my son of 14 is still studying online, with the same teacher and via livestream,” she nods.

However, Fosun is in the process of launching its own e-commerce marketplace in China for its own brands, making sure that Chinese customers, even if blocked at home can still buy.

“Most of our business was in retail historically. But due to the virus the government said ‘stay home,’ and we Chinese follow the rules. The streets were deserted. However, perhaps, that has helped an older generation also embrace the online world, and e commerce,” said Cheng, who admitted she has been living in Europe for the past two months.

“CONVERSATION PIECE”

Crossing lines of dialogue – other voices, different personalities, points of view. The Lanvin Fall/Winter 2020 collection is a collection of discussions between past and present, patrimony and modernity, all using the language of the Maison to communicate to the now.

Conversations are found between manifest individuals. First, foremost, there is the conversation between Lanvin creative director Bruno Sialelli and the founder Jeanne Lanvin, traversing time and connecting the contemporary with the historical. His investigation of her design vocabulary discovers a fresh grammar and syntax. But in turn, that conversation inevitably reflects others – namely Jeanne Lanvin’s visionary collaborations, uniquely based in dialogue with different creative disciplines – she not only designed clothes for women but, in collaboration with a family of creatives, devised childrenswear and menswear, interiors, cosmetics and parfum. All are referenced here, those individual tête-à-têtes feeding a more general discussion, each speaking of Lanvin in a different voice.

Lanvin’s 1949 collaboration with the French poet and author Louise de Vilmorin on the book L’Opéra de l’Odorat – in itself a collaboration, prefaced by Colette and illustrated by Guillaume Gillet with watercolours and expressive calligrams, is a source of graphicism. Words wind their way into illustrative lines of print, expressive watercolours are printed across feathers and silks. The perfume and beauty lines of Lanvin are translated into bijoux de fantaisie and buttons furrowed like the flaçon of Lanvin’s signature 1927 fragrance, Arpège; Lanvin’s cosmetics suggest a whispered color palette of powder blue and blush-pink, bordeaux, rouge feu and rose-midi. Furthermore, their forms are used for accessories – minaudière handbags are formed from overscale lipstick and rouge compacts, like surreal objets d’art. Lanvin’s conversation with designer Armand Albert Rateau resulted in the extraordinary interior of her home on rue Barbet de Jouy – a zoomorphic wonderland of animaux transmogrified into furniture, here translated again into jewellery and accessories. Menswear – originally launched in 1926 – here underscores the women’s silhouettes, each borrowing from the other.

Lanvin lived beyond Jeanne. As a fragrance diffuses a room after the wearer has left, these clothes bear traces, evoke memories and emotions. They are redolent. Garments themselves reference not only Jeanne Lanvin’s signature sinuous lines of the 1920s 1930s, her robes de style and graphic Modernist embroideries, executed like jewels, but also the work of her successors, who converse with her as inspiration. The curvilinear shoulders and structured brevity of tailoring recall mid-century haute couture, balanced on heels formed into a graphic, abstract ‘J’ for Jeanne, a Brancusi incline.

A wider conversation comes from Lanvin’s perception – as an innate, distinctly French brands, the oldest couture house in Paris. References are draw generally from this abstract notion of Frenchness: the bourgeoisie gesture of a matching parure of jewels, the gesture of a gloved wrist matched to handbag matched to shoes. From the art of Henri Toulouse Lautrec and Pierre-Auguste Renoir, executed when Maison Lanvin was founded in 1889, come ruffled rond de jambe skirts, a froufrou femininity. Playfully, a Parisian pâtisseries box can become a handbag. Exploding those periods, the show décor expresses a notion of contradictory domestic grandeur – a maison meets a maison de couture. Created in the Manufacture des Gobelins, using archival tapestries drawn from several centuries to create an interior reminiscent of both then and now, it is another conversation piece.

In all, a manifesto of Lanvin. Past, present, always.

复星时尚集团携旗下品牌多措并举,战“疫”云升级

Sorry, this entry is only available in 中文. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

2020年2月27日,上海——新冠肺炎疫情发生以来,复星时尚集团充分发挥全球资源优势,携旗下各品牌采取多项举措,希望共同协力,打赢抗疫阻击战的同时,也要打好经济保卫战。

在积极响应国家复工复产的号召下,为做到平稳有序复工,开展正常生产经营,复星时尚集团鼓励旗下各品牌,积极打通线上服务,打造线上购物模式,做到业务不停、服务不断。

尽管受疫情影响,线下零售遭遇冲击,但复星时尚集团的业务发展却“不减速”。历经春节期间紧锣密鼓的筹备,2月10日,LANVIN 浪凡入驻亚洲最大的线上线下精品生活方式平台寺库(NASDAQ:SECO),并在寺库APP平台设立旗舰店,推出由创意总监Bruno Sialelli设计的2020年春夏系列。

LANVIN 浪凡在寺库APP平台设立旗舰店

寺库与LANVIN携手开辟线上“云秀场”,是LANVIN入驻寺库不足一月后双方的首次深度合作。2月26日,本季LANVIN 浪凡秋冬大秀在巴黎建于15世纪的Manufacture des Gobelins织毯工坊举行。此次大秀,LANVIN 浪凡携手爱奇艺,首创将VR高清直播技术应用于时装秀场,打造VR沉浸式体验,同时与寺库联动,实现“双直播间”模式,让消费者能直接从秀场到电商平台,满足其购物需求。同时,寺库也将配比全站的推广资源和进行部分站外投放,协力打造出奢侈品品牌和电商平台合作的先锋案例。

此外,一直播、微博、抖音等多元线上平台也开辟了#LANVIN云秀场#,用科技传递法式经典时尚,为大家带来一场原汁原味的奢侈盛宴,与每一位观众进行一场“面对面”的对话,最近距离直击现场,探秘秀场的台前幕后。

Lanvin 浪凡2020秋冬大秀

不仅如此,LANVIN 浪凡正积极探索更多智慧零售模式,诸如建立VR看店功能、官方商场小程序等,这些都将辅助品牌进行线上转型,从而不只在这特殊时期进行正常业务开展,更是能在充满机遇的未来扩大销售范围。

为打赢疫情防控阻击战,复星时尚集团旗下奥地利高端内衣品牌WOLFORD也正积极行动。针对全国店铺区域采取严格的人员管理和消杀防疫措施,并建立24小时微信服务模式,全天候向在家“云逛街”的顾客提供贴心导购。品牌高层也通过视频慰问一线医护人员并给予祈祷。

美国奢华品牌ST. JOHN虽然身处美国尔湾,山月不同,但ST. JOHN员工们牵挂着中国同事,牵挂着武汉疫情,自发录制视频为武汉及中国加油,向奋战在一线的人员表示慰问感谢。同时,加大宣传力度,鼓励顾客进行无接触线上消费以避免一切交叉感染。而针对线下零售,ST. JOHN始终坚持健康至上的原则,每件服装都必须经过严格的三重消毒过程:手、服装袋以及快递袋。确保消费者安心、放心、暖心。

St. John员工视频加油

复星时尚集团董事长程云表示:“这次疫情并非只是中国,而是全球共同面临的问题。是危机,也是契机。突如其来的疫情使我们旗下各品牌积极调整经营策略,迎难而上,加速向线上发展。”

除了开辟“第二战场”,为旗下各品牌加速布局,建设智慧零售模式之外,从农历春节开始,复星时尚集团在复星国际的统一指挥带领下,充分调配全球资源,积极响应救援行动,迅速动员旗下品牌WOLFORD和TOM TAILOR在欧洲各地帮助寻找并提供重要的医用物资,参与了一场又一场航空、陆路的接力跑,以“全球广度”、“中国速度”帮助缓解武汉乃至全国的医疗物资短缺问题。

复星时尚集团调配全球资源,支持武汉

风雨向来急,逆行从不止。复星时尚集团旗下各品牌皆拥有着深厚的历史、独特的基因和卓越的技术,正不断以时尚融汇彼此,用实际行动保障生产,为战“疫”出一份力。

DIALOGUE: LANVIN 130 YEARS

Duration: Saturday, December 7, 2019–Sunday, February 9, 2020
Opening: Friday, December 6, 2019
Venue: Fosun Foundation Shanghai

Shanghai, China: World famous fashion brand Lanvin announces it will join with Shanghai Fosun Foundation on December 7, 2019, to present the exhibition “Dialogue: 130 Years of Lanvin” to Chinese audiences. The exhibition features over seventy antique clothing items, new runway show pieces, and precious works of embroidery, providing a sweeping view of this legendary brand’s profound influence on the fashion world over the past 130 years, and its reinterpretation under Lanvin’s new Creative Director, Bruno Sialelli.

“I wish each and every one of you a fabulous journey of discovery through this exhibition, which I am convinced will move, entertain and fascinate you.”

—Lanvin CEO, Jean Philippe Hecquet

Lanvin was founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin. As Paris’s oldest fashion brand, Lanvin is renowned around the world for its timeless designs, pursuit of perfection in craft, and bold use of cuts and colors. It stands today as a global leader in high end fashion. The exhibition “Dialogue: 130 Years of Lanvin” presents a refined and diverse collection of precious items never before exhibited in China from a diverse range of themes in a vivid retelling of the history of this storied brand that shows the evolution of Lanvin’s fashion innovations.

Through the exhibits “Bow Ties and Brooches”, “Large and Small”, “Lanvin Theater”, “Plants and Animals”, “Evolution of Clothing Models”, “Exotic Travels” and “Waves” on the Fosun Foundation second floor, and “Discerning Paris”, “Video Room”, “Lanvin Light Room”, “Embroidery” and “Museum” on the third floor, the exhibition constructs a pathway through 130 years of history to present the evolution of Lanvin’s fashion across the dimensions of time and space, to pay tribute to the past, and gaze into the future. In the dialogue across time and space between glorious history and modern heritage, between timeless classics and groundbreaking innovations, the viewer and brand join together to explore the deep artistic meaning and penetrating insights into the times that lie behind Lanvin fashion.

 

Dialogue Between Glorious History and Modern Transmission

As it commemorates the 130th anniversary of Lanvin, this exhibition also welcomes new Creative Director Bruno Sialelli. Looking back over this legendary history, Lanvin’s landmark designs have infused the brand with extraordinary DNA, while the touching human stories behind each design have bestowed Lanvin with a unique culture. This spiritual core is found within every aspect of the brand, transcending time and space to provide Lanvin’s designers with an inexhaustible wellspring of creative inspiration. Founder Jeanne Lanvin employed what are now iconic design elements such as bow ties, the mother and daughter brooch, children’s clothing and the childlike mind, medieval style, exotic flavor and the iconic “Lanvin blue” to form a signature style which has now found new life in the hands of Creative Director Bruno Sialelli. It shimmers with the luster of the times, and continues the splendor of the Lanvin brand in the dialogue between history and modern transmission.

Just like the exhibition title, Dialogue brings Jeanne Lanvin’s vision together with the brand’s completely new interpretation in a dialogue of resonance.

—Lanvin Creative Director, Bruno Sialelli

Bows and Logos
Lanvin’s unparalleled and unrequited love for Marguerite provided her with the inspiration and the motivation that she needed to develop the House of Lanvin. In 1924, Lanvin adopted the famous logo, known as the Woman and Child – a tender motif that expresses Lanvin’s multifaceted relationship with Marguerite. Lanvin’s familial and precious ethos is captured in the image of a mother leaning forwards to clasp her daughter’s hands.

Playing with Scale
In 1908, Lanvin developed a children’s line in response to the demand generated by the clothing she made for her daughter, Marguerite Marie-Blanche (b. 1897). The following year she added a Young Ladies and Women’s department where mothers and daughters ordered their Lanvin creations together.

The New Medieval: Lanvin Bleu
The ‘Angel’ (L’ange) dress illustrates Jeanne Lanvin’s interest in the cultural production of Medieval and Renaissance Europe. The vivid ultramarine used to convey the angels’ robes was a costly and luxurious colour in 15th-century Florentine painting. It was translated onto silk by the dye factories established by Lanvin in 1923. The formula for the dye was carefully safeguarded and ‘Lanvin Blue’ continues to be central to the language of the House today.

Flora and Fauna
Between 1921 and 1925, Jeanne Lanvin worked closely with the designer and draughtsman Armand-Albert Rateau. Their numerous collaborations gave Lanvin an “architectural framework for her style – a modernism that embraced ornament”. For the dining room in Lanvin’s Paris residence at 16 rue Barbet-de-Jouy, Rateau designed an elaborate folding screen composed of ten panels. It brings together constellations of plants and flowers, sinuous tress, and animals composed of smooth, curving lines.
The rabbit and fox chase continues from Rateau’s famous screen onto dresses in Bruno Sialelli’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2019.

Comic gallery
Conceived as an immersive performance, and referenced in the second floor gallery, Bruno drew on surrealist references by reproducing the sleep-induced adventures of US cartoonist Winsor McCay’s comic strip, Little Nemo in Slumberland (1905-11), on accessories and clothing. This collection renewed the House’s legacy of daydreams as a perfect device to fetishise French elegance and experiment with craft techniques and imaginative silhouettes.

 

Dialogue Between Timeless Classics and Groundbreaking Innovations

What is changing and what is eternal? Since its inception, Lanvin has aspired to lead world fashion trends, marshaling penetrating insight into the essence of ever-changing fashion, a pioneering modern spirit, outstanding design and bold innovation, Lanvin has constantly brought new developments to timeless classics. Lanvin collaborates with a wide range of creators including visual artists, musicians, designers and writers, and draws inspiration from the cultures of the world. As they create new fashions, they also change the way fashion is presented, modeled and displayed.

“Each installation poses a question about what is changing and what is constant; the exquisite construction and attention to detail that persists at Lanvin is what delegates change to design. ”

-Curator and Exhibition Designer, Judith Clark

Lanvin’s Theatre
The relationship between Lanvin and theatre is one of the least renowned, yet fascinating aspects of the house. Jeanne Lanvin’ s contribution to stage costume was impressive, and spanned more than 35 years. She collaborated on 300-plus theatrical works that are counted in the archive.

Deco Poses
In 1925, Jeanne Lanvin was appointed President of the fashion section at the Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes – a significant event in the history of fashion and design. Lanvin reprised the role of President of the Pavillon de l’Élégance for the Exposition internationale des arts et techniques dans la vie moderne, held in Paris in 1937. Once again, the mannequins featured in the pavilion broke with tradition. The modern mannequin acts, therefore, as a conduit for the powerful role of imagination in our encounters with fashion.

Exotic Travel
Lanvin travelled the world in search of new experiences and sources of inspiration. Her visits to museums, churches, and antique shops led her to collect costumes and ancient, folk, and ethnic textiles that informed her fashion designs.

Wave
The references of the garments adorned in shells are to beautifully painted women’s dresses. The one on display, ‘Coquillage rose’ (‘Pink Shell’), is from 1925, and it shows the translation across time and gender.

 

Dialogue Between Viewer and Brand

The exhibition also draws the viewer on a temporal thread along a 130 year journey of exploration. While revisiting many classic moments, a dialogue between viewer and brand unfolds across space. On the second floor of the Fosun Foundation, highly dramatic installations with clear themes form a dreamlike journey through time and space that inspires the viewer to seek out connections within the exhibition hall, and enter into a third space of intersecting light and shadow. This third space brings together the most treasured objects and documents from the history of Paris fashion. To stand among them is to engage in an intimate dialogue with Lanvin through time and space. Here, the viewer can take an up-close look at Lanvin’s exquisite craftsmanship, and explore the evolution of Lanvin fashion while reflecting on fashion’s constantly-shifting essence.

The essence of the 130-year-old brand Lanvin is about much more than just its classic clothing. It also rests in its passion for affection and family conveyed through its children’s clothing and furniture series. This is a perfect match with the healthy, happy and prosperous life Fosun Group strives to create.

—Fosun Foundation President, Jenny Jinyuan Wang

The Museum
The Museum contains the most precious historic objects from the Lanvin Archive in Paris. They have been collected here for their first-ever display in China.

Graphic Embroidery
Jean Lanvin audaciously combined simple designs with rich embroidery. This aesthetic can be attributed to the couturier’s sense of style; to her ability to produce designs that appear simple but are powerful.

The Video Room
The conflation of dreamlike imagery and high craftsmanship is a distinctive trait of the House of Lanvin.

The Judgement of Paris
This pochoir print, The Judgement of Paris, uses the mythological tale of competing forms of desire represented by the three goddesses, as a humorous take on the competitive nature of society dress. Two of the three garments designed by Lanvin, and featured in George Lepape’s illustration, have been recovered and further restored for this exhibition.

The Lanvin Light Room
The play of contrasts permeates the designs of Lanvin to the extent that it has become a signature of the House.Light and brilliance are frequent sources of inspiration for the House of Lanvin and occupy a central place in its universe.

 

LANVIN Café

Alongside the exhibition “Dialogue: 130 Years of Lanvin,” the LANVIN Café also makes its first appearance in China, recreating the atmosphere of the streetside French café to show Chinese viewers a slice of the romantic French living aesthetic. LANVIN Café is decorated with the trademark wood paneling, cloth canopies, mirrors and neon lighting of French cafés, not only presenting the pure French café culture, but also expressing Lanvin’s signature fashion aesthetic. The site also features a Lanvin-themed desert cart and crepes made by CLOUD Bistro chefs, giving visitors a taste of authentic French flavor.

Lanvin is joining hands with the Fosun Foundation Art Shop, drawing inspiration from Lanvin’s signature gift boxes and traditional Parisian book stalls to create a unique gift shop area presenting 17 souvenirs created expressly for this exhibition. Sit in LANVIN Café to enjoy the delicious food, or peruse the art souvenirs, and set out on a journey of “dialogue” across regions and cultures.

At this time, the CLOUD Bistro, located on the Fosun Foundation’s fourth floor terrace offering 270 degree views of the Bund, will officially open for business, providing Lanvin’s afternoon tea service and cocktails specially devised for the exhibition. Take in the fashionable allure and artistic import of Lanvin with a feast of the senses.

 

Acknowledgments

This exhibition enjoys special support from the French Consulate in Shanghai. Our strategic sponsorship partners are Fudi Elegant Garden and Yuyuan Investment Holdings; exhibition special partner is Serious Skin Care; hotel partner is Hotel Indigo Shanghai on the Bund. FASHION ZOO is our opening party partner; Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Champagne is opening ceremony partner; and Voss is the official drinking water partner for the exhibition.

St. John Relaunches with Bold New Collection and Social Media Campaign Aimed at Global Audience

The American fashion house, known for its luxury knits, pushes the fashion envelope forward for an expanded customer base with a fresh vision and voice from new creative director Zoe Turner.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE (Irvine, CA) November 7, 2019 – St. John, the American luxury house founded in 1962 on the premise of simple, elegant knitwear enters an exciting new era with a fashion-forward capsule collection and provocative social media campaign envisioned by recently-appointed creative director Zoe Turner.

Embracing St. John’s future while paying homage to its past, the story unfolds with a redesigned logo – a subtle yet powerful change. Leading this new narrative is a refreshingly modern limited-edition capsule collection created by Turner and her team of artisans and knitwear technicians. The 20 head-to-toe looks push the boundaries of craft and couture, as never-before-seen knitting techniques take both delicate and bold forms.

St. John’s iconic signatures are reimagined with modernized brand codes including knit stitch, metal hardware and a new jacket silhouette. Looks range from a featherweight pleated Grecian-inspired ensemble, to intricately textured, graphic geometric looks. In a creative twist, the hardware, is now incorporated into the clothing – down the front of a bodysuit or in the bodice of a cut-out midi dress. St. John’s signature suit takes on new proportions, oversized and tailored at the same time, while classic cream and metallic tweeds now embody sporty silhouettes. Turner also introduces a new color palette, wovens and leather, along with essential wardrobe pieces that speak to the way today’s women dress.

Consumers will experience the collection via a limited release available online and a social media campaign launched exclusively on Instagram in the U.S. and WeChat in China, all new milestones for St. John. To help develop the concept and statement making social media campaign, St. John and Turner tapped 26-year-old photographer Bibi Cornejo Borthwick.

“It’s about evolving as a brand and making sure we are being as authentic as possible along the way, creating an emotional connection with the consumer,” said Joann Cheng, Fosun Group’s Global Partner and Chairman of Fosun Fashion Group, which acquired a majority interest in St. John in 2017. “St. John holds an important position within Fosun Fashion Group not only because it’s our first U.S. brand, but also one with a unique core of signature innovative knits and an undisputed reputation for quality. We are committed to further develop it into a successful luxury brand rooted in U.S. but with global width. The U.S. and China are two major markets, but we are increasing our efforts in regions such as Europe, where we also see ample opportunity.”

“We’re excited to introduce Zoe and her vision with this limited-edition capsule collection, and to spark the conversation around beautiful fashion through the digitally-led campaign. These new initiatives will speak to a larger audience, including our existing clients, about who we are and what we represent: a blend of modernity and history,” said chief executive officer Eran Cohen.

Turner, who leads all creative at St. John with a holistic approach, starting with its codes and icons and melding them with her fresh approach to product, visuals and store design, noted,
“The capsule represents new ideas, techniques and a fashion forward vision. It is a chance for us to highlight 20 unique looks and ideas. I wanted to speak to the different facets of who we are and how we can express ourselves in the future. It skims the surface of a very deep story.”

The capsule collection will be supported by launch events in New York and Beijing as well as robust social media campaigns featuring 100+ influencers and opinion leaders ranging from celebrities, inclusivity advocates, and fashion tastemakers each bringing the looks to life in their own way. Turner’s first full collection for St. John will be Fall 2020, and a new store concept will debut mid-to-late next year. -ends-

变装灵药 —— ATH_W胶囊系列全新发布

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2019年10月18日,中国上海——以独创性、大胆革新与高品位的成衣、丝袜、内衣等产品为代表的奥地利高端内衣品牌WOLFORD沃尔福特宣布推出全新运动休闲ATH_W胶囊系列。并于当天在上海外滩金融中心BFC FITNESS举办了中国首发庆祝派对。

活动当天,身穿ATH_W胶囊系列的品牌挚友宋轶亲临现场,率先体验了这一全新系列的多变风格。她向品牌透露到:自己关注WOLFORD品牌已久,全新运动休闲ATH_W胶囊系列的推出使得自己对WOLFORD又有了全新的认识。这一系列的设计元素也是当下流行的运动休闲混搭风。

WOLFORD虽然以丝袜及内衣驰名世界,但在休闲运动风(Athleisure)的设计与生产方面无疑是个中行家。品牌负责人表示“早在1991年,我们的第一件无缝紧身衣就已诞生,所以当下正热的休闲运动风对我们来说不算新鲜事,WOLFORD的休闲运动风会用一种最巧妙的方式来体现。”
全新ATH_W胶囊系列的产品将高端材质、极度舒适和现代风格三大特点精巧整合,在原本经典的紧身衣设计上,增加潮流运动元素,满足当代女性对混搭运动休闲造型的需求,协助她们应对各种场合,宛若变装灵药, 使她们无缝衔接白天与黑夜,正式与休闲,上班与运动,时刻享受精致运动、优雅时髦、多功能的新潮风格。

WOLFORD, 来自奥地利的时尚瑰宝亲肤品牌,一直都以其一丝不苟的质量标准和对时尚的敏感,矗立于世界制袜业的顶峰。相信其全新胶囊运动休闲系列亦会成为让人信服的热销产品。

St. John Names Zoe Turner as New Creative Director, Redefining Modern Luxury at Heritage House

The designer joins the iconic American brand from Max Mara Fashion Group and Dior in a new role spanning product, store design and brand communication.

St. John, the American luxury house founded in 1962, has named Zoe Turner as its new creative director, an expanded role arching across all facets of the brand from its collections and retail environments to its multimedia presence. With a singular creative voice, Turner will take the legacy brand to new heights while remaining deeply rooted in its DNA.

A sophisticated and highly technical fashion and knitwear designer with 20 years of experience, Turner has an impressive background that includes almost a decade at Dior under both John Galliano and Raf Simons, during which she honed her skills as a knitwear expert. Turner began her career working alongside celebrated Italian designer Alberta Ferretti, and most recently headed a team while consulting at Max Mara Fashion Group.

“Zoe has a fresh outlook. She is curious, creative and passionate, and this energy will help drive St. John to the next level. She has a deep understanding of the brand’s DNA and how to communicate that to customers through a 360° brand experience. We believe Zoe can introduce St. John to a larger audience through reinterpreting the brand codes and modernizing the collections,” said Joann Cheng, Fosun Group’s global partner, chairman of Fosun Fashion Group, which acquired a majority interest in St. John in 2017.

“Zoe is a quiet and powerful creative soul with an innate sense of how women want to dress. I love her passion, her appreciation for all eras and her eye to the future. She has a vision for the bigger picture, and I look forward to seeing the impact that Zoe will have at St. John,” said Eran Cohen, chief executive officer of St. John.

“St. John has a rich history of innovation and flair. Like kindred spirits, I look forward to creating a new chapter in the story of a great American brand.”

Keeping luxury, comfort, confidence and classicism at the forefront, Turner will lead a team of artisans, craftsman and technical experts to create clothes that spark desire and start a new conversation.

“I’m honored and excited about the challenge ahead, and to lead the creative teams with a new vision for today’s woman.”

 

绮梦巴黎,LANVIN 2020春夏时装秀

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对巴黎人来说,没有什么一个秋雨蒙蒙的早晨更适合赖床的了,如果有什么可以让他们离开温暖的床铺,那必须是一场更美的幻梦。

LANVIN甜蜜梦乡

Lanvin这场名为“Slumber Land”的2020春夏系列大秀,在当地时间2019年上午9点30分于巴黎凯·布朗利博物馆(Musee du Quai Branly)拉开帷幕。Slumber Land意为“甜蜜梦乡”,Lanvin创意总监Bruno Sialelli从漫画《小尼莫梦乡历险记》中汲取灵感,演绎了一场似幻的绮梦。
1905年,插画家Winsor McCay创作了《小尼莫梦乡历险记》,在《纽约先驱报》上以连环画的形式每周出版一次,故事讲述了一个梦想超越现实的小男孩,被吸进他自己的幻想,在这里,有他所希望的一切。儿时于法国南部生活的Bruno Sialelli,童年的回忆时常能和尼莫产生共鸣,在这个世界里一切皆有可能,充满了幸福、幻想和美梦。而这个世界与老牌巴黎时装屋Lanvin的初创历史完美契合:Jeanne Lanvin在屋子里为她亲爱的女儿Marguerite设计小衣服。

优雅白日梦

Bruno Sialelli为他的2020春夏系列一共创造了64款男女装,除了尼莫,他还为Lanvin的故事续写了一段新篇章,重温了20世纪50至60年代的优雅,正如知名作家Truman Capote所形容的“天鹅”。在Lanvin的花园里,一切都让人如此的舒畅,明媚的色彩与松弛却精准的剪裁相辅相成。
夹克仿佛是舒适的茧,由球服和外套来强调了面料的质感。袖子,天鹅颈以及隐藏的纽扣只为突出高级定制的外观。在衬衫、褶皱和飘逸的运动衫及裙子上,你可以找到《小尼莫梦乡历险记》的整页漫画。层次感丰富的剪裁,搭配羊绒、丝绸、皮革等多种面料,新系列好似带领着我们在沙滩或公路上度过了一个漫长的夏天。在那个仲夏夜里,我们梦想的一切仿佛都随着设计变得触手可及,如一幕幕梦幻泡影于眼前慢慢闪现。
最后出场的时装借用了穆克什元素,这是一种古老的埃及刺绣。这种技术在埃及已经很少使用了,为此,Lanvin特意前往印度寻找会使用类似做法的女裁缝。制作这几件布满彩色金属片的服装需要花费一万五千小时,超越了设计本身,成为真正的艺术之作。
对于男装而言,本季增添了更休闲的着装风格,灵感来自Lanvin前任创意总监Jules-Francois Crahay当时设计的带有60年代印花的T恤。容量与时尚兼备的条纹旅行包,你可以用它装起从尼莫世界冒险归来的纪念品。

沉醉的早晨

细雨蒙蒙的Musee du Quai Branly凯·布朗利博物馆更像是一座热带花园,由Gilles Clement设计,花园鼓励白日梦和沉思,远离城市的喧嚣。毗邻这个宁静港湾的是一间会客室,依据美国著名室内设计师Dorothy Draper的风格而设计。这是秀场,又或许是尼莫的房间:宽条纹的粉色墙纸,厚实的绒毛地毯,洋溢着幸福和无忧无虑的活力。
整场大秀十分安静,Lanvin为每位来宾送上了silent Disco耳机,让他们得以在被雨水润泽的热带花园里身临其境,告别一切喧杂,沉浸在一场让人不愿醒来的美梦中。
除了天马行空的创意展现,本次大秀同样闪烁着熠熠星光,Lanvin品牌挚友歌手林彦俊、超模雎晓雯、歌手嘉羿、演员陈钰琪与复星国际董事长郭广昌、Lanvin董事会主席及复星时尚集团董事长程云、Lanvin首席执行官Jean-Philippe Hecquet共同观看了本场大秀。